By Leslie Gilsdorf
The steam curled around my face as I peered into the greenish, translucent liquid in my black mug. It smelled of nature and tasted even more like it. Bitter. Sweet. Lively. The flavor took an adjustment, it was an acquired taste. I did not love the flavor, but I kept taking sips from my black mug–something kept bringing me back, to take another sip, and another, and another, just to see if it was something deserving of my enthusiasm or only worth pouring into the nearest drain. I had heard about this new drink from a few places, it had surfaced on the pop-up advertisements of my Instagram, and an occasional friend would make a remark about how amazing this peculiar green substance was. I took another sip, trying to make it last long enough to again decide if I enjoyed its flavor, and soon enough my curiosity drained my cup. It sent me on an adventure to find out what this unfamiliar tea, Yerba Mate, really was. Was it worth the social media rave, what was it, and where did it come from? In my research, I not only discovered the intricate history of yerba mate, but also how it is produced and who is the leading producer and why, and finally the plethora of health benefits that drinking Yerba Mate has on the body that simply makes Yerba Mate the perfect beverage for every CSU student and faculty.
First, let me tell you how Yerba Mate originally started…
A long time ago, before social media, before the internet, before the United States, and back to a time more aboriginal than the 1300s, to a tribe in Guatemala where Yerba Mate was the drink that upheld the culture of the Guarani tribes. Yerba Mate’s beginnings are rooted in the traditional Guarani tales of companionship, and friendship that surrounded the rich tea from its infancy. The most popular legend begins on a torrid day when a very weary traveler came to the home of an elderly man and his daughter in the middle of the Guarani jungle. The traveler was warmly welcomed by the old poor man, and despite barely having enough to feed and nourish himself, the old man invited the traveler into his home to stay with him and to share a scanty meal. It was small, but the old man gave whatever he could to the traveler so he could be on his way revived and refreshed. The next morning before the traveler left, he gave the old man a gift as a repayment for the old man’s friendship and hospitality. It was a tree, the Yerba Mate tree. Unbeknownst to the old man, the weary traveler was the god Tupi, the creator god, and in other versions of the story, he was thought to be the god of the moon. The legends of its healing power and stability carried the wonder of Yerba mate and spread it far and wide through South American countries and the people began to drink it routinely. But then came the Spanish Jesuits, who after coming to South America and taking governorship over the areas the Guarani people lived in, the Spanish governor Hernando Arias de Saavedra in 1616, took particular notice to the native Guarani peoples mass consumption of Yerba Mate and declared it a vice. He did not understand the wonder of Yerba Mate and feared that it had some power he did not know of, and he outlawed its consumption. But before long, despite Hernando Arias de Saavedra’s rule, the Spanish and the natives were all rapidly consuming Yerba Mate. Before long it had spread back to Europe. Yerba Mate began to enter high-class society and trade routes were established for it to be enjoyed in more and more places. It became increasingly popular throughout Europe and even began its spread to Asia. And since that point, its popularity has grown. It has especially grown in the last ten years in the United States, which is how it caught my attention, and most likely yours too.
And as for the production of Yerba Mate…
Well, from early in the timeline of Yerba Mate, Argentina has been the largest producer of it and has named it their national drink. Most of the Yerba Mate is produced commercially instead of being picked by rummaging through the forest clipping the bright green leaves and stems. Through both commercial production and smaller farms, Argentina produces some 245,000 tons per year, feeding the large South American appetite for this beverage (Circle of Drink). The average Argentinian consumes about six kilograms of Yerba Mate per year, per capita, which is less than the average consumption of Yerba Mate in Uruguay which is nearly ten kilograms of Yerba Mate per year, per capita. The production process of Yerba Mate commences with the young plant, the seedling, who is nourished and grows into a leafy green shrub with white flowers. When the plant has matured (about 5-7 years after the plant originally sprouted), the tender leaves and stems are harvested, bagged and weighed and transported to a processing facility. Once, bags of leaves and stems are in the facility, a process of blanching begins. The leaves and stems are placed directly over either wood or petroleum burning fires as hot as 500 degrees celsius for ten seconds or as long as three minutes. This process breaks the epidermis and stomata in the plant and stops the leaves from oxidizing and deactivate leaf enzymes. The next step is drying, where the leaves are put into chambers where smoke, which contributes to the changes in its chemical makeup and physical appearance, and heat of a hundred degrees celsius are used to dry the leaves until they only have about 4% humidity left in them. This part of the process takes eight to twenty-four hours to complete. The last step before the mate is packaged and sent on its way to the customer is aging, yes mate is aged similarly to how wine or other liquors are aged. The dried leaves are put into cedar or cement aging chambers for as long as twelve months in order to develop the rich (and somewhat bitter) flavor of mate. And the last step is for them to be milled to the desired size and packaged for the next consumer, Instagram influencer, or curious individual to pick it up off of the shelf.
But why should you drink it?
And for the person who does pick it off the shelf, perhaps a CSU student a faculty member… is the nearly ancient drink they have heard of down the line of Instagram feeds and friends actually good for them? Well, so far the studies are saying that it is, and even saying that it has more benefits than traditional green tea. In a study done to evaluate a pool of men and women struggling with obesity and untreated dyslipidemia, they found that after eight weeks of intervention, that being a daily consumption of yerba mate, green tea, or apple tea (control group) of 100mL, those who consume yerba mate resulted in an increase of antioxidant capacity in patients and an increase of HDL cholesterol. It has also been shown to contain the perfect amount of caffeine, but unlike other caffeinated beverages (specifically coffee or energy drinks) yerba mate has been shown to be a central nervous system stimulant, providing clarity of mind and steady energy levels throughout the day and not jitters or headaches (Mejia). The benefits of yerba mate tea go on. I am quite convinced that the Guarani people instinctively knew something about the tea that we did not know. The Guarani tribe attributed much of their survival and well begin on this drink so much that it was believed another Brazilian army survived on solely mate for three weeks. I am by no means suggesting that anyone tries to just survive on yerba mate, however, for the average college student stressed with school, frustrated, tired and needing a source of energy to keep them engaged and to finish their tasks and assignments without the jitteriness that comes along with our beloved, but possibly not so good for us, coffee, yerba mate just might be the solution. It is served in our dining halls on the CSU campus, which is, in my opinion, one of the better choices that CSU has made in regards to food on campus. It is good for the students, it can help them study and focus, and I can attest to the lightness and clarity that I generally feel after drinking yerba mate, even if I find its taste somewhat questionable. But what is more important is that yerba mate was originally based on friendship and hospitality, and what if the students at CSU knew the story behind Yerba Mate, what if it brought them to sit and dine in friendship and hospitality more often, to enjoy each other’s company more often. It is, after all, the drink of friendship.
About the Author: Leslie Gilsdorf
I grew up drinking tea, but coffee, coffee was what I started drinking at the age of two. I used to steal my mother’s mug of coffee off the glass table in our living room, and proudly swallow most of the mugs continents. I am convinced that is the reason I am two inches shorter than any of my four other sisters. And so it was from a very young age that I developed a passion, if you call being an avid drinker of tea and coffee a passion, for the exploration and enjoyment of hot beverages. And now I am here, on the CSU campus in my first year of college, and it was here that I discovered Yerba Mate. Aside from my love for hot drinks, I am an artist, a creative, multi-passionate individual, and a big-picture thinker. My path, as far as a major and a career, well, I am so far undecided in that.
Sources
Balsan, Guilherme, et al. “Effect of Yerba Mate and Green Tea on Paraoxonase and Leptin Levels in Patients Affected by Overweight or Obesity and Dyslipidemia: a Randomized Clinical Trial.” Nutrition Journal, BioMed Central, 19 Jan. 2019, https://nutritionj.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12937-018-0426-y.
Circle of Drink. “The History of Yerba Mate (1500-2015).” YouTube, commentary by David Askaripour, Jun. 23, 2015, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7mwVnVZdSA
Garsd, Jasmine. “Tea Tuesdays: Gift Of The Moon, Bane Of The Spanish – The Story Of Yerba Mate.” NPR, NPR, 17 Mar. 2015, https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2015/03/17/393355841/tea-tuesdays-south-america-runs-on-yerba-mate.
“Harvesting and Processing.” Harvesting and Processing Yerba Mate, https://matefactor.com/learn/harvesting-and-processing/.
Mejia, E.G. De. “Yerba Mate Tea (Ilex Paraguariensis): A Comprehensive Review on Chemistry, Health Implications, and Technological Considerations.” Wiley Online Library, John Wiley & Sons, Ltd (10.1111), 17 Oct. 2007, https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1750-3841.2007.00535.x.
“The Secrets of Mate – ‘The Drink of Friendship’.” Pampeano, https://www.pampeano.co.uk/journal/secrets-mate-drink-friendship.
Picture Sources
- https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwi6ncbN0pLmAhVQo54KHfCcAUgQjRx6BAgBEAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.istockphoto.com%2Fphotos%2Fyerba-mate&psig=AOvVaw2oechcDP_MQm4qVdTMtkV1&ust=1575227699938373
- https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjqk56E05LmAhWCtZ4KHVsgB_UQjRx6BAgBEAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fridingthedream.blogspot.com%2F2010%2F04%2Fland-of-yerba-mate-little-history.html&psig=AOvVaw1_FDsBuIKx02u71xIcX5UC&ust=1575227809742264
- https://www.google.com/search?q=yerba+mate+antioxidants&rlz=1CASOCA_enUS855&sxsrf=ACYBGNQH_BQCk3VlOb1j3_gFEh8GUBXD7g:1575432287455&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiKyvHOjpvmAhWJuZ4KHSD9CU0Q_AUoAnoECBEQBA&biw=1410&bih=837#imgrc=KVmyYEHFXkeFuM: